Rich and Rare; Autumn Ice Conditions

Dropping the first pitch of the Grand Envers, photo courtesy of Cedric Bernardini. These recent bountiful snowfalls have filled in crevasses at altitude and have plastered the steep granite walls of the Massif with sticky white ice. Alpinists have been busy gorging themselves on goulottes and mountain walls. The last few months have seen numerous ascents of the North faces of the Grand Jorasses, Les Droites, the Grand Pilier D'Angle, the East face of the Tacul, the NE Couloir of Les Drus and the North faces of the Cham Aiguilles. I was lucky enough to find the rarely formed Rouse-Carrington (on the N face of the Aiguille de Pelerins) in superb condition.

L'île aux Razmokets - Vallon de Bérard

cragging
A fast 12 pitch 621 meter bolted climb with easy grades up to 5b+. Climbing with Toby we managed to overtake a party of three on the approach path which takes around 25 mins from the Bérard waterfall and buvette. Once on the crag and ahead of the first group we were left the whole wall and valley to ourselves. We managed to summit just as the rain started with the direct abseil back down the route. Perfect autumn easy climbing with no crowds. Charlie Docherty